There is a wide range of equipment that we can use to walk our dogs, and the choice (not to mention all the conflicting advice) can be overwhelming.
This blog is a deep dive into collars and harnesses, starting with general considerations for each, before delving into the options available.
Safety and comfort
When deciding on the equipment that we are going to use to walk our dogs, the main considerations should be safety and comfort. Comfortable dogs are generally calmer and more focused than dogs who are not, so it is in our interest as guardians to make sure that our dogs are happy in what they are wearing. We must also ensure that our dogs are safe, and not at risk of injury.
Being able to walk calmly on a loose lead will make walks much more comfortable and enjoyable for both dogs and guardians, so whatever equipment you use, we advise prioritising loose lead walking training if this isn’t something you and your dog have mastered just yet.
Collar considerations
In the UK, dogs are required by law to wear a collar with an identity tag attached which details their guardian’s name, house number and post code. There is no doubt that our dogs should be wearing collars – but should we attach a lead to their collar and walk them on it?
How our dogs walk on lead has a big impact on how comfortable they will be in a collar. Do they pull? Are they likely to lunge?
Pulling into a collar (especially at speed) puts a lot of pressure on dog’s necks, and can cause serious injuries to the larynx and trachea. Head collars can also be injurious to dogs who pull and lunge into them, especially if they have preexisting neck or spinal conditions.
Harness considerations
It is a common misconception that harnesses cause pulling, but this isn’t the case. Dogs usually pull simply because they walk at a faster pace than we do, and they are impatient and excited to explore the world around them .
When choosing a harness, consider the shape of your dog and their tendencies out on walks. If they are a bit of an escape artist, a harness with a waist belt may give you some extra security as the dog will be unable to back out of it.
Has your dog worn a harness before? If not, it may take them some time to get used to it. Guardians can help their dogs feel comfortable in a harness by introducing it slowly, with lots of treats and encouragement. Take a look at Battersea’s guide to lead, collar and harness training for some top tips and advice.
An overview of the options
Y harnesses have a Y-shaped front and are designed for comfort and safety. If a dog pulls into the harness, their weight is distributed across their chest and shoulders, reducing the chance of injury.
As with all dog-wear, a Y harness must be well fitted so that it isn’t too tight or too loose. The harness should be long enough under the chest that it doesn’t rub under the dog’s armpits, and shouldn’t sit on any sensitive areas. The Y harness that you see in the picture shows the ideal shape and style.
Step-in or ‘boomerang’ harnesses are different to Y harnesses in that the front strap sits straight across the dog’s shoulders.
This style of harness can restrict shoulder movement and may cause injuries like dislocation if dogs pull into them too quickly and too hard. They can also exacerbate conditions like shoulder dysplasia.
Flat collars are the standard collar for dogs – they are usually made from thick fabric or leather and sit flat around the dog’s neck. Some have a buckle, and others have plastic snap ‘quick release’ closing mechanism. To ensure your dog’s safety if they were to catch their collar on a branch or something similar, we recommend collars with a quick release function.
Flat collars should not be so tight as to choke your dog, but not so loose that they can slip out – as a rule of thumb, you should be able to fit two fingers under your dog’s collar.
Martingale collars are sometimes called ‘limited slip’ collars, which means that they tighten under tension to the circumference of the dog’s neck (no further). This means that the collar shouldn’t choke them, but they can’t slip out of it. These are designed for dogs like greyhounds, whippets and salukis who have narrow heads, making it easier for them to slip out of a standard collar.
Head collars are similar in design to halters that are used on horses. When the dog pulls forward, pressure is created over the nose and at the back of the neck, and is released when the lead loosens. As the halter is fitted around the dog’s muzzle instead of their neck, the dog is unable to put their full weight into a pull.
Head collars also direct the dog back towards their handler if there is tension on the lead. This forced movement makes head collars unsuitable for dogs with neck or spinal injuries, and can also be a safety risk to dogs who pull or lunge while wearing them.
If head collars are used, they must be properly fitted – ill-fitting head collars can be very uncomfortable, and may push up into a dog’s eyes and cause skin irritation to their muzzle.
It is also essential that dogs are properly introduced to head collars so that they feel comfortable wearing them out on walk. This will likely take patience, time, and plenty of tasty treats. If a dog is pawing at their head collar, or rubbing their face on the ground, the equipment should be removed and reintroduced gradually. The Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors have handy guide to help guardians introduce head collars appropriately.
Shock, prong, choke and spray collars. We have grouped these collar types together because they are all aversive, which means that they cause pain and fear for dogs. The Animal Behaviour and Training Council, Kennel Club, RSPCA, and Dogs Trust all advise against their use, and we do not recommend them.
Tightening or “anti-pull” headcollars and harnesses have been designed to tighten and therefore punish pulling – similar to a slip lead. While they are often marketed as humane, they only work by causing enough discomfort to stop the dog pulling, which usually needs to be a substantial amount.
Most dogs will demonstrate their discomfort by rubbing their heads and faces or moving away when it’s time to put the equipment on. That said, some dogs will tolerate them if it means they get to go out for a walk.
We don’t advocate for punishing dogs, especially for simply being excited to be out. However, we know that pulling can be stressful and dangerous, and that guardians are just looking for the right answer.
There is no substitute for good training, but if you need a short-term fix the best option is a two-point or front-clip harness. This allows you to clip a lead onto the front of your dog’s harness, which means you can redirect the dog so they aren’t pulling you forwards.
If you are have any questions about dog equipment, training and walking, why not join us for one of our guided Waggy Walks and chat with us in person? Alternatively, send us a message on Facebook or Instagram, and we will respond with helpful and ethical advice.
